Technical Questions

To prevent surpluses from going to the grid, you must install a Smart Meter (energy meter) compatible with your inverter. This device is placed at the start of the electrical installation and “informs” the inverter to adjust production in real time according to the home's consumption. Some hybrid inverters already include a current transformer (CT) for this function.

If when trying to register your plant you get a “module already registered” or “SN in use” message, it may have been previously tested or require a factory reset. Send a photo of the module label with the serial number to [email protected] so our technical service can perform a remote reset or release the device.

A safe installation must be protected in two areas:

1. DC side (panels to inverter): Requires a protection box with fuses, isolator switch and, importantly, a surge protector to protect the inverter from lightning or voltage spikes.
2. AC side (inverter to home panel): Requires a differential switch (Class A or higher) and a circuit breaker to protect the line against short circuits.
3. Batteries: If adding storage, install a disconnector and high-capacity fuses (NH or cylindrical) appropriate to the discharge amperage in the inverter manual.

1. Sloped tile roof: Coplanar structure. Installed parallel to the roof using “tile savers” that avoid directly drilling the tile.
2. Flat terrace or ground: Inclined structure. Provides the optimal angle (15°, 30°, etc.) and is fixed using expansion bolts or concrete ballasts to avoid perforating the waterproofing.
3. Corrugated metal sheet: Specific fixings that screw directly onto the sheet rib with EPDM waterproof gaskets.

Standard structures are raw aluminium (silver grey). However, as they sit almost completely under the panels, they are barely visible. If you want a Full Black aesthetic, you can paint the end terminals (end clamps) with black lacquer or request black plastic end caps for a professional finish.

Standard structures are usually designed for panel widths up to 1.15m. The latest-generation panels (+550W) tend to be wider and longer. If your panels exceed these dimensions, consult us so we can send you reinforced profiles and compatible clamps.

No. You must exclusively use Solar Cable (H1Z2Z2-K). This cable is designed to withstand UV radiation, extreme outdoor temperatures and has a double insulation layer. Using conventional cable will cause insulation failures and fire risk in less than a year.

To avoid energy losses and overheating. For standard distances (up to 20-30 metres), a 6mm² cable is the recommended standard to minimise voltage drop.

In solar installations we handle high DC currents. A loose or poorly crimped terminal generates electrical resistance, which translates into extreme heat. This is the number-one cause of burnt inverter terminals and electrical arc faults. Always use professional tools.

For batteries, we recommend high-capacity fuses (NH or cylindrical). Standard AC circuit breakers do not interrupt high-intensity DC currents well and their contacts may “weld together”, failing to protect the equipment in a real short circuit.

Yes, it is mandatory. There is a false belief that zero export exempts from registration, but according to RD 244/2019, any grid-connected installation (even if it does not export energy) must be declared to the industrial authority for safety reasons.

1. Advantages of registering: You can apply for subsidies, IBI reductions (according to your municipality) and, if you decide to switch to export with compensation in the future, you will already have the paperwork advanced.
2. Process: Generally it is sufficient to submit the Electrical Installation Certificate (CIE) and the technical report to the industry authority of your Autonomous Community.

Yes, most lithium batteries (Pylontech, Dyness, etc.) require a specific RJ45 data cable. It is not always a standard network cable, as the pinout (wire position) varies by inverter brand. Make sure to purchase the communication cable compatible with your inverter model.

The smart meter communicates with the inverter via an RS485 data cable. For short distances, a shielded CAT6 network cable is sufficient. However, for distances greater than 20-30 metres, it is advisable to use shielded twisted-pair cable to avoid interference that could falsify the consumption reading.

Yes. There are several alternatives:

1. PLC: Sends the internet signal through the home's electrical cables.
2. 4G modules: Some manufacturers offer sticks that work with a data SIM card.
3. LAN cable: The most stable option; if possible, connect the inverter directly to the router via an Ethernet cable.

Although not mandatory, it is highly recommended. Lithium batteries (such as Pylontech) are heavy and generate heat. A rack cabinet allows them to be stacked safely, keeps the cabling tidy and provides the necessary ventilation to extend the cells' lifespan.

It is the communication port. Unlike lead batteries, lithium ones need to “talk” to the inverter to say how much charge remains, what temperature they are at and how fast they can be charged. Without this communication cable, the inverter will go into error mode or will not manage charging efficiently.

For standard residential installations it is not necessary. However, in larger or industrial plants, these sensors allow you to know whether low production is due to cloudy weather or to dirty or faulty panels, comparing real radiation with generation.

Yes, through Surplus Management accessories (such as relay outputs on some inverters or devices like the “Ohmpilot”). These accessories detect when you have solar surplus and automatically switch on the water heater or heat pump, converting the leftover energy into free hot water.

Absolutely not. It is essential to use a crimping tool specific for photovoltaic connectors. A poorly made connection in DC is the main cause of electrical arcs and fires in solar installations. A poorly crimped connector generates resistance, heat and, eventually, fire.

There are biodegradable liquids that help remove limescale or resin residue. However, for routine maintenance, clean water and a soft brush (never abrasives or scourers) are sufficient. Most importantly, clean the panels when they are cool (early morning) to avoid thermal shock in the glass.